Based on a suggestioin from Dan at Clear Stream, I modified the forms to accomodate a sheer clamp strip. This strip runs the length of the sheer on both sides and is about 3/4 in. square. This method is how Ted Moores does it on his kayak plans (Bear Mountain Boats, Kayak Craft book). The joint of deck to hull is very sharp (vertical to horizontal) which means that seam tape is basically impossible to apply and with so little volume in there, you will never get inside anyways to apply the seam tape. So the sheer clamp strip is permanently glued to the deck when you build, but is in place when you build the hull. With it attached to the deck when the deck is removed, there is no need for inside seam tape. The finished deck is glued to the finished hull with thickened epoxy, held in place with screws which can be either left in or removed after the epoxy glue has set. Then the outside seam tape is applied.

And Bjorn's method of building is pretty rough as I believe he mostly paints his boats, so lots of rough fitting of strips and epoxy fillers to fair everything out. If you are looking for a clear finish, this will not be the easiest build as Dan states in twisting of strips and transition from front of cockpit deck to flat back behind.

No offence to Bjorn as I fully respect his designs, but in my opinion, this shape of boat is better suited to ply stitch and glue. It is a lot easier to make a flat deck and hard chines with ply than thin strips and fillers.

Having said that, the person that I built it for LOVES his BP and he has more than one boat in his garage and he is a very experienced and talented paddler and a good customer. I have worked on, repaired and modified several of his boats.