: Note that you do not want to apply epoxy to unsealed wood and then
: heat it up. This can cause severe outgassing and nasty bubbles.

: If you heat the work space before starting work and then turn down
: the heat and control the temperature around the boat at a
: slightly lower temp with a tent you will probably be fine.

: If you apply seal coats to the wood before your glass wet out coat
: you may be able to control the outgassing, but heat applied to
: still liquid epoxy is risky. Once the epoxy has set up to the
: green stage, go ahead and add heat to fully cure, but be very
: careful increasing temperatures before that.

Yes, be careful to avoid wood off-gassing. One seal coat alone won't
stop off-gassing, just like one coat of resin on bare wood won't make it waterproof.

Any heat source near liquid resin on bare wood
will cause bubbles from wood off-gassing.

At one time I used some spot lights in my shop and found bubbles at each
point the spot lights hit the boat when I was glassing.

Unfortunately, your chances of getting a good transparent wet-out of the glass
go down as the temperature you start with goes down.

You're putting a lot of work and time into your boat and of course, you want the best
result. The one point which will make a big difference in how your boat will look,
is how well the glass is wet-out, to make it really transparent. It's worth taking your time
and figuring out how to heat your shop for this step, to get the best results.

Then as Nick has said, once the glass is wet out, you can work in lower temperature with fast setting
hardeners to do fill coats and end up with one gorgeous boat.

For more info on getting a truly transparent lay-up see - http://www.laughingloon.com/epoxy.html

Rob