: My earlier advice to bevel the stem as you progress upward is from
: my own experience building a kayak last year. Just noticed in
: Mac's book that he says take the inner stem off the form and
: bevel the whole thing at once at the bench. His experience would
: allow this but mine wouldn't on a first time build.........I'd
: rather bevel for 3 or 4 strips at a time to get maximum flatness
: for gluing. It is a rolling bevel.

: Regarding your problem, I would either make new forms or cut the
: bevel off the old and either double the thickness of the inner
: stem OR build the form back out to original dimensions before
: adding a normal stem. Either choice would not take very long.

: If you lose any length, it will affect the amount of twist at the
: ends, and I can attest it is already fairly severe. I used a
: heat gun on the short and wide Wee Lassie much more than on the
: 17' Spring Run kayak.
: This would also keep the boat true to Macs' plan.

: Does this other book also have a Wee Lassie plan? Is it a repeat of
: Mac's plan? That could get confusing.

: Ian

Hi Ian,
Susan Van Leuvens book is all about the Wee Lassie and Wee Lassie II. Her illustrations are good and explanations very clear, but you have to
study the book almost entirely to be able to piece together how something is done and being sure that the illustration you are looking at is the Wee Lassie and not the W.L. II.

I will make a new Bow stem form from 5/8" or 3/4" 5-ply. This particular form slapped my wrist, as I now know how important it is to use the factory
cut edges. That form must have a factory cut 90 degree to it. Any corner on the sheet of ply is a 90 degree angle. I also learned the poster
paper I used was not exactly 90 degrees. The paper I used was off just a smidgen. The stern form came out good as I used the corner of the
sheet to make that particular form.

I'm getting there,
Douglas