: The plan is to glass the deck with 4oz. cut around the cockpit as
: close as possible then add 4"-6" wide x
: 10"-12" long strips of bias cut pre wetted strips
: between the lip and deck. Is this the best plan? Is there a
: 1/2" roller made that will fit into this crevice? All I can
: find are rollers to paint the corners of house walls.

: Question #2; When glassing the hull I had to tape between the deck
: and hull to protect the deck. I taped up about 1/2" on the
: sheer strip of the hull. I will have to do the same with the
: deck when I glass it. When joining the deck and hull I will have
: approx. 1" of unglassed space between them. Should I turn
: it on edge and fill this area with epoxy and then add my 3"
: strip the length of the boat or should I glass and then fill?

: It is amazing how much work is generated by simple mistakes. It is
: also amazing how much more and how much faster I learn when I
: have to fix screw-ups:))

: As usual, thank you very much in advance,
: Randy

I would just use a narrow foam brush to apply the epoxy on the glass connecting the coaming riser to the deck, cut the brush down if necessary, and try to get as much of the epoxy out of it as you can. As for the gap between the deck and hull, I would use a convex paint scrapper like Purdy makes with a carbide edge and scrape the 2 edges (hull and deck) until the tapers blend smoothly into the wood on each side of the joint. then just place a 3" wide strip of glass over the joint and epoxy like normal. You might want to visit One Ocean Kayaks website and see how Vaclav does it, http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Wshophtm/Shop23a.htm He also explains on another page that scrapping is a good way to blend that strip of glass around your coaming into the deck to make your sanding sooooo much easier!

Bryan K