: Here's how I'd do it. Rough cut the plywood planks so that they're
: manageable. Tack them to the frames. Run and tack a batten along
: the frames following the sheer and chines. Mark the plank using
: the batten. Either trim the plank on the building mould or
: remove and cut.
: Sean

Some variations on that to consider:

If you have the lines for a chine boat you can feed them into FreeShip to get the developments then build a S&G ply boat since you’re familiar with that.

Wooden Boat Magazine numbers 222 & 223 (Sep/Oct/Nov/Dec 2011) describes the building of a lapstrake Peapod. In summary, you set up the station molds and lay stringers along the plank seams, then lay the ply over the stringers and mark for cutting. At this point you have a choice:

- you can staple the planks on dry and tape the seams on the outside then pull off the hull to tape the inside seams, a sort of stitchless S&G.

- or you can glue the planks to the stringers and use them as chine logs. For this option the stringers are screwed to short battens on the molds from underneath so they can be removed. The magazine describes this very clearly. The upper planks overlap the lower ones like the Peapod which has a lot of planks meeting at a fine angle which are left as lapstrake, but for a chine boat the sheer edges can be planed flush with the next lower plank and so forth. This is what I did for my canoe; I think the chine logs or stringers inside the boat look as neat as epoxy fillets and there was almost no sanding!