: hi all,
: . . . I was wondering if
: there is any merit in building a traditional frame with a few
: less ribs and then stripping it with cedar strips. Glued, of
: course.
: . . .Instead of fibreglassing the exterior, the inherent strength of the
: frame coupled with the strips leads me to think that merely
: oiling it would suffice (or a few coats of spar varnish). Yay?
: or nay?
: . . .
: Thanks in advance,
: Tippy

I went that route as I don’t like handling glass and I wanted something with a traditional look.

Without glass, the strips need extra support; you can either double plank or use ribs. I took the approach that the ribs did not need to be as closely-spaced as they were in traditional builds with ribs at 2 to 3 inch centers; my boat has them at 8 inch centers but it will be gently used.

The build can be done on a building mold with a few stringers over the station forms, the ribs are steamed and clamped to the stringers, and the clamps are removed as the strips are glued on. I would apply the first ribs close to the station forms so they help support the stringers.

A hull can also be built with strips then flipped so the ribs can be steamed and added inside. The double-cedar canoes built by Dan Herald in the 19th century did not have ribs; an inside layer of strips was laid edge-to-edge cross-ways - the first molded boats? That is an option but a bit time-consuming and non-epoxy glues may set up too quickly to allow for fitting the inside strips.

With a SOF the strength comes primarily from the frame so it needs to be robust, although the skin stiffens it. A glued boat can be very light as the strength is in the skin; it doesn't have to be heavier than a SOF.

I used Titebond III, not as good as epoxy but OK for a boat used for short trips and stored indoors. I have doubts about oiling it though; mine will be varnished heavily.