: I am sanding the hull on my Gilly after several fill coats and
: still have a fair amount of shinny spots that look to deep to
: sand out. I so far have been sanding with 120 paper and
: wondering if this needs to be sanded to 220 or more to get the
: best clearity. I than think i may put a final coat of thinned
: out resin to help fill the shinners but just like the varnish
: the stuff does not stick well to the shinny spots. Should i use
: a different type of sander for this maybe a Scotch brite pad or
: something. Nick said he uses a little bit of cabosil in the last
: resin coat to help with the fish eyes. I will try this because
: they have allways giving me problems in the final varnishing
: stage. Any thought on this pro or con. Thanks Joe
Talking from a quite different perspective/experience concerning epoxy resins,, IsoPropilic Alcohool is the solvent of choice for epoxies if not otherwise specified by the manufacturer. If so, cleanse with IPA. Another matter would be that you will get chemical bond only within the time window indicated by the epoxy manufacturer/ seller. I have this at 6-9 hours. Going beyond this time you will only get physical bond which is prone to fail under certain circumstances, where from, the need to polish and have no shiny spots.
Hope these consids will help a bit.
Being not a native english speaker, I hope I'm not confusing you further with my post :)
Messages In This Thread
- Material: final coat
jwuts -- 2/21/2012, 1:25 pm- Re: Material: final coat
John Abercrombie -- 2/21/2012, 3:08 pm- Re: Material: final coat
Luke H -- 2/24/2012, 7:27 pm
- Re: Material: final coat
Gelu Botezan -- 2/21/2012, 3:39 pm- Re: Material: final coat
ancient kayaker -- 2/21/2012, 10:58 pm
- Re: Material: final coat
- Re: Material: final coat