: I've used a circular saw for ripping strips and other parts of
: boats for years and have never used a table saw. I get accurate
: and almost paint-ready cuts time and time again, typically with
: less than 0.01" runout over the length of a strip and less
: than 0.01" variation from the first to the last strip of a
: batch. The as-cut edge is perfect for gluing. You can get more
: accuracy with a table saw but nobody will ever know. Nothing
: special about the saw if it is good condition with no bearing
: play, but the blade is important - mine cost about the same as
: the saw, a construction quality finish-cut thin-kerf blade.

: Here are the things I have found to be important:

: Ensure the blade is running true before use
: Add a ply base to the baseplate, square up the blade and lower it
: through the ply to create a zero-clearance slot
: Use a long guide, about 3x the length of the blade is about right;
: that ensures the cut starts and ends true
: Don't rush and don't force the tool against the wood
: Watch for chips getting between the plank and the guide or
: baseplate; sawdust accummulates at an amazing rate: I rigged up
: a vac pickup on my saw
: When cutting lots of strips off a plank, once in a while check the
: edge is still straight and plane if if necessary
: How you support the plank is crucial: I place the plank on a table
: top that is protected by a sheet of insulation foam
: I keep short lengths of strips of the various thicknesses I use as
: gauges to set the guide-to-blade gap and ensure it's parallel
: Short pieces of aluminum strips are also handy as gauges
: When cutting a batch of strips check the first one carefully in
: several places for uniform thickness and squareness - errors
: build up quickly

I've always followed the rule to use the best available tool for any job. If you have a good table saw it's the best tool for the job, if you don't have it, obviously you'll have to use the best tool that "you" have.

Bill H.