: Luke, check out my "Skin On Frame Kayak #1 Rebuild" album
: at: http://community.webshots.com/user/brian_nystrom-reg

: I use a very simple method to support the boat for coating that
: allows me to flip it and do both the hull and deck at the same
: time. Whether boat is deck-up or hull-up, I can reach into the
: cockpit, get a grip and flip it. However, it's easiest if you
: coat the hull first, so you can just grab the coaming and flip
: the boat (unless I'm tinting the skin, I usually coat the deck
: and the coaming at the same time).

: One thing to watch out for on the first coat is that if you coat
: the hull too generously, you can get drips onto the underside of
: the deck. These will show up as darker spots unless you're using
: an opaque coating. You want to saturate the fabric, but too much
: roller or brush pressure can force drops of the coating through
: the fabric. I use light pressure with an epoxy roller (the thin
: covers work better than standard rollers), followed by tipping
: off the bubbles with a foam or bristle brush.

: Follow the application schedule specified by the manufacturer.
: While allowing a little extra time between coats is generally
: not a problem, trying to rush the process can create serious
: issues and increase the curing time dramatically.

Of course! Nails to support it (just like everything else I've ever varnished).

I'm thinking I'll just drive a pair of nails through some 2x4 and rest the chines on the nails for the deck, and on the gunwales for the hull

Now if it would just warm up a little here in MI...