: Making progress. Hope to fix the deck on tomorrow. According to the
: plan instruction the coaming is made up of stacked plywood side
: pieces which is topped by a single thickness of the ply to get
: the lip. Guess this is an accepted method. The part that
: surprised is no glass on the interior or exterior
: "sides". Each layer has glass on it's top surface and
: it is glued up with epoxy.
: Am I missing something or over thinking--it seems to me it would be
: stronger if the glass covered the exterior of the coaming and
: blended into the underside of the deck.
: I'm no engineer or even a builder but I thought I read some of what
: gives the glass wood glass build is the separation of the two
: layers of the glass by the wood.

: Just thought I'd ask. The kit is from CLC and they have sold a few
: kits. Tho' I gather the Arctic Hawk is not a big seller. Someone
: commented it was not the ideal first kit to build. I think I
: would agree with that. But I have to build another S & G to
: know for sure.
: That will be after the bidarka and a Yost boat or two, maybe a
: stripper then a S&G. That would bring the fleet to 7 boats--Hey
: one for each day of the week. I could even paint a day of week
: on each one so they get used in an organized fashion.

: Thanks in advance.

Pygmy furnishes stacked plywood coaming risers already glued together with its kits and a separate piece for the lip. They say to just epoxy the riser and put glass on both sides of the lip piece for strength before gluing to the riser. I have done this with 4 kayaks so far and it seems to work great. The risers are very stiff and strong and don't need glass on the inside or out. On my strip Great Auk 14 I used a stacked plywood riser and lip and then used Etienne's method of putting strips on top. Looks great.

Charles Robinson