I've completed the epoxying on my Guillemot and I'm very pleased with the results.

A few build details: 99% is WRC. The light strips are poplar and white pine. The hull was stained with Dark Vintage Maple TransTint dye (~3/4 oz/quart EtOH); the deck was bleached (chlorine/oxalic acid) and ebonized (iron dissolved in vinegar)

It was a stapleless build. The first few hull strips were attached to the forms with hot glue and I used plywood "U" clamps and webbing straps to hold the subsequent strips while the Titebond III glue set up. I read about the fishing line method (I think this was first mentioned in the forums by Bill H.) and used it for holding the detail strips in place on the deck, then used the U clamps to fill in the areas between the details.

I used MAS epoxy and 3.2oz glass from Thayercraft doubled on the hull bottom with an additional 6oz glass layer on the inside cockpit area and on the deck behind the cockpit. It weighs ~32 lb.

My thoughts: I like the look that I've obtained with the ebonizing technique. The strips have enough variation and 'brown wood color' showing that differentiates the blackened areas from if they'd simply been painted black (thanks again to Bill for posting about this process). My concern now is how well these areas will hold up since the black areas will obviously heat up in the summer sun. I'm hoping the epoxy does not overheat. The bleaching did not lighten the strips as well as I'd hoped which is why I resorted to using the dye on the hull to increase contrast with the deck.

I really liked using the fishing line as an alternative to staples. The hot glue method didn't work well for me since it does not hold the strips to the forms very well when you have duct tape on the edges.

There are more photos on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2573983759082.146251.1538964097&type=1&l=5bccaa5e5f