At 24" wide the kayak should be pretty stable if the ribs aren't too round. A keel stringer and a chine on each side should give you a hull that's flatter which should give you more stability but less speed and allow you to do leaned turns better. If you dont bend your ribs with a pretty sharp bend then you might need a couple chine stringers on each side just to keep the skin off the ribs. I would install your ribs and see if you can get by with just one chine on each side without the skin touching the ribs. If not, use two chine son each side.

: So I have gotten my top deck one of my Greenland style kayak. Ribs
: slots mortised deck beams lashed and ready to install the keel
: stringer and bow and stern pieces.
: I have been reading a number of books and been on more websites
: than I can count. I have officially confused myself. I am trying
: to decide if I am better of with a keel stringer and one chine
: strip on either side as per several books. or keel stringer and
: two chine stringers on either side. For the sake of informed
: help my kayak is 16'6 and has a 24" beam. The depth bow to
: stern is 10", 9" and 7". I consider myself an
: intermediate paddler and paddle the Seattle area. 60% of the
: time on lakes and sloughs and the rest in puget sound. I am
: looking for stability and as much speed as possible. My initial
: plan was to do the keel stringer and chine stringers with
: 1"x3/4" cedar sitting on the 3/4" side on all
: three strips. I am wondering if I would get a better hull shape
: with 5 total strips on laying on the 1" side but with less
: distance between each stringer.
: Thank you in advance. Can't wait to get this figured out so i can
: start bending ribs. Oh wait I am terrified of that part :)

: Stefan