: Kevin, a couple of questions for you.

: 1. I was wondering how well the skeg box material bonded to the
: epoxy?
: 2. What was the width inside your skeg box?
: 3. Is that a slot-in fin or does the axel pin have to be removed to
: get it out?
: 4. Is the fin a good fit or does it rattle side to side in the box?
: 5. How do you rate their slider control box arrangement, and did
: you use the stainless rod or the carbon rod in the control box?

: Thanks.

: Et

I ordered the Kajak Sport skeg with the lipless design. Based on input from this forum, I decided to rest the skeg box on the inside of the hull vs and thru-hull installation.
Questions in order
1) The bonding to the plastic box was excellent. I first sanded with 120 grit on the sides of the skeg box to aid in bonding. I used the standard thicken epoxy (peanut butter viscosity) to make a fillet that I had a 1/2 inch radius in the joint of plastic and hull.
2) I used calibers to precisely measure the inside width of the plastic skeg box. I cut the opening to the skeg boxes' inside width.
3) The skeg fin is totally removable with a slot design. No need to remove the pin. I adjusted the skeg cable so that it doesn't travel far enough to reject out of the box.
4) The fin does not rattle at all in the box. This is due four vertical plastic ridges( 1/16inch wide) in the skeg box that insure a tight fit and proper alignment. In fact the only problem I have had is with the skeg fitting too tight in the box. I used a machine file to file down the plastic ridges to get the right glide resistance.
5) The skeg box came with a plastic skeg control box that you can order separately from Kajak Sports. A thick stainless cable comes directly mounted to skeg. Only three screws are required to remove the skeg fin from the box. It literally takes a minute to remove the skeg fin.

Hopefully this helps..