Even mor important than glass type is to get you shop temps well up to seventy degrees or above for the next effort. You don't really have a hope of a perfect job otherwise.

I have a bubble wrap tent which I lower over the boat when I am glassing. I get the heat up inside this tent to seventy or above, then I glass the boat.

Using slow hardener I wet out the first quarter of the hull and let it saturate the glass while I am then applying epoxy to the second quarter of the hull, then, while that is sinking in I go over the first area with the heat gun to ensure a complete wetout.

Then I lay on the third quarter, and while that is sinking in I go over the previous bit with the heat gun, etc.

Don't apply the heat gun too soon, let the resin sink in on its own first, and don't overdo the heat gun, just move it around to get the resin flowing nicely and when you can no longer see the glass flecks quit. You may see the occasional bubble appear, but if you start seeing loads of bubbles you are overdoing the heat gun.

For the above stages I don't squeeze out the resin too much as I want it to have the opportunity to penetrate the timber as much as possible while it is still fluid.

Once the boat is nicely covered I then go back to the beginning and squeegee the excess epoxy out. If you got it right in the application there won't be that much.

Some prefer to, but I don't do a seal coat prior to glassing. You though, will have residue from your previous effort, which you will want to sand smooth after lifting it off, so a seal coat may be a good idea in your case. Watch out for blush if you use a seal coat. You want to get the glass on after the seal coat has hardened enough that it won't be too tacky and grab the glass, but before it has had time to blush. If you keep your temps up you will run less risk of getting blush.

Finally, once you have got the glass and your first coat on and are ready to walk away, allow the heat in your shop to very slowly drop. Ideally five or six degrees over the period your glass takes to set up. This will ensure you don't get bubbles from outgassing.

Second and third fill coats can be applied at slightly lower temps as you don't need the wetout anymore, but too cold or damp and you will get blush.

That's enough from me. I'm sure others will have their own methods and input.

Et