This will be the one piece wrap around and the deck and hull aren't joined yet. The blue foam mold is in place and I am about to start shaping. Going to use tape instead of wrap since I only have two hands.

I have been using 3.2 oz glass so I guess that means I will double what others did with heavier glass ?????

Cutting the glass/carbon strips, placement, and wetting out have me a little fearful.

"4-6”strips at the beginning and 24-30” toward
the end."

we'll see

: Yes.
: Notice that the OneOcean method uses a coaming 'lip' fastened to a
: wood riser.
: This is similar to the method used in commercial glass boats where
: the lip is fastened to a riser which is part of the deck
: molding.

: It's also possible to do a 'wrap-around' coaming using foam as a
: former and wrapping the glass/carbon under the deck - i.e. one
: piece lip and riser.
: I've done that on a couple of boats now- one a retrofit to an
: OuterIsland (I removed the wood coaming which looked great but
: didn't 'grip' the sprayskirt very well) and the other to the
: not-joined deck of a Brit-style build.
: I think I found the method & layup schedule at Bjorn's website,
: but I can't find it now.
: Foam former, with the edge of the former that meets the cockpit
: deck edge rounded over with a router. Foam covered in packing
: tape.
: After I attached the foam to the deck, I filled the gap (where the
: foam was rounded) with epoxy/silica.
: Then laid on the glass and carbon layers by hand. As I recall, it
: was 6oz glass-carbon- 4-6 more layers of glass- carbon-glass.
: Covering the carbon with glass helps protect against sanding
: through to the carbon. On the OuterIsland, I laid on more clear
: epoxy and then wet-sanded smooth.
: If the deck/hull are already joined, it's a bit awkward cleaning up
: the under-deck area, so if you are worried about people using an
: inspection mirror to check your work you'll need to paint the
: underside of the deck! ;-)