: I am trying to complete one of Nick's Microbootlegger kayaks, my
: first strip build. Hull and deck are stripped up and off the
: forms. I have been procrastinating due to mild anxiety about
: fiberglassing the thing, and now I am running out of warm summer
: weather to complete it. I built the boat using the rolling bevel
: technique, and that produce a good-looking exterior surface, but
: not a uniformly perfect looking interior. My plan is to fair the
: interior by filling gaps with epoxy thickened with phenolic
: microballoons, level everything adequately, fiberglass, and
: paint the area visible through the cockpit opening. the outer
: surface of the boat will be finished bright.

: My question: leaving cosmetic concerns aside, just how smooth and
: flawless does the interior surface need to be in order to
: properly apply the fiberglass? Over much of the interior, it
: will, of course, not be seen by anyone, so just how obsessive do
: I need to be for a structurally and functionally satisfactory
: result?

: Thanks for your indulgence with this beginners question.

I do not use fairing board on the inside to level. I use a sharp scraper tool to remove all the glue that is above the surface of the cedar strips. I found that a Black & Decker mouse sander works best for me. I use the same techniques as the outside hull; sanding across the beam of the kayak and then the length of the kayak. I work in both directions within a one to two foot area, and then move down the length of the kayak. The B&D mouse sander works great for me because as the sander goes across the strips on the curvature of the kayak I use the point of the sander to smooth out the rounded sections of the hull. I start with 50 grit, then 80, the 120 grit. You could stop at 80 and still will look good. It takes me about four hours to do the inside of the hull. I really make sure I grind everything down with the 50 grit, which makes the 80 and 120 sanding very easy. I fill sharp angles at the bow/stern stems with thicken epoxy and sand smooth. If I see any scratches going across the grain of the cedars strips, due to the B&D sander. I wrap a Titebond bottle with a sheet of sandpaper, and sand by hand lengthwise. I go to Home Depot, and buy Elmers wood glue fillers in three different colors. Walnut, Golden, and Natural colors. I use these different colors to match the surrounding wood. This wood filler only works before any epoxy is applied. I tape the area to fill and only do the filling after 80 grit sanding is done. Also make sure you buy wood filler and not wood putty! The key for me is the B&D mouse sander elminates most of the hand sanding.. Good Luck and sanding....