Excellent.

: Because I build and paddle kayaks without deployable skegs or
: rudders, I always test paddle my kayak builds prior to
: installing the coaming so I can trim the CG location to assure
: the kayak will be wind neutral (in a cross wind). Adjusting the
: seat location is the easiest way to trim the CG location which
: influences if the kayak will weathercock (turn into the wind) or
: leecock (turn downwind). And seat location then determines the
: cockpit and coaming location. I install the coaming last so the
: hull and deck are totally glassed and epoxied, and I also epoxy
: seal the cut edge of the undersized cockpit cutout, so all wood
: is waterproofed. I take the coamingless kayak to the local bay
: in a brisk wind and test paddle crosswind. I move back in the
: cockpit while paddling until the kayak quits weathercocking and
: note my back location in relation to the deck. Knowing my back
: location I then can locate the rear of the coaming. I like my
: fist (5 inches) to fit between my back and the finished coaming.
: This process assures that I will be able to paddle my finished
: kayak (without ballast or cargo) in a crosswind with minimal
: crosswind correction.

: The only hitch to this is method is the rear bulkhead must be at or
: behind the aft edge of the final cockpit opening so the
: installed bulkhead may limit moving the coaming back. It is best
: if the aft bulkhead falls right at the edge of the final cockpit
: cutout to expedite draining water, when performing a rescue
: (re-entry). I install the rear bulkhead after installing the
: coaming. And I install adjustable foot braces at the front
: bulkhead.

: If you install a deployable skeg you want the kayak to weathercock
: when the skeg is up and leecock when the skeg is down.

: Rudders should be the most efficient if the kayak is wind neutral
: when the rudder is down.