Today: clean up the inside of the hull and glass.....

I used to use a rubber sanding adapter for an electric drill to sand the inside of the hull, but couldn't locate it, so I improvised a substitute using a 'contour' soft pad that I'd picked up on clearance years ago. With a soft 80-grit pad, it worked well.

The angle drill makes it easier to work near the ends of the hull, and the variable speed keeps things under control.
3M makes similar adapters for both hook/loop and PSA discs, but I haven't found a source (shipping to Canada) at a reasonable price.

Adding the glass inside the hull can 'lock in' undesired changes from the designed shape. Usually I've used a series of 'spacers' to set the hull width at the sheer while the epoxy cures. I decided to experiment with adding a (temporary) 'sheer doubler' to stiffen up the sheer and hopefully 'lock' the design curve in place. I used an extra strip to serve as the doubler, clamping it in place 'dry' with the forms taped in place in the hull. Then I used a syringe to run (black) epoxy along the upper edge of the hull-doubler joint - capillary action ensured enough epoxy to bond the strip securely. Later, I'll split off the doublers and sand off the excess splinters and epoxy.
It definitely works....

I like to glass the inside by running short lengths of cloth across the width of the hull. I do the ends first- with smaller pieces cut on the bias, and then the full-width cloth pieces overlap. The selvage provides a clean transition.
I used 4oz on the ends and 6oz in the cockpit section.