I doubt any two strip hulls are absolutely identical. As the first sheet of glass hardens on the outside and shrinks it is putting stresses on the pod that are going to distort the shape to some small degree. That is possibly why hulls tend to widen while waiting for their inside glass.

I have noticed that S & G hulls which have bulkheads fitted before inside glassing tend to concave slightly between the bulkheads at the keel as the glass hardens on the inside. This is if they are glassed inside first. It is a very small variation, but noticeable, before and after glassing. Presumably this is due to shrinkage too.

These distortions do not self correct as the opposing glass layer goes on unless the hull on strip boats is physically distorted while the inner glass hardens.

In the case of your boat, unless someone else here has a bright idea, it is unlikely that you will be able to manually correct the distortion where it is in the ends. I would carry on regardless, providing that you are not getting negative rocker. The extra depth at the bow will equate to more weather cocking, if it is noticible at all. Moving the seat back slightly would compensate. But I doubt it will be necessary, a quarter inch is not much.

You will need to check for fairness on the deck before you start stripping it. The formers, having moved, may require adjustment. As I recall, the Redfish boats do not have much kick up at the ends. You may be able to just remove the offending forms altogether before doing the deck. You need to check for fairness all along the deck. Not just near the moved forms, you may have to lift other forms slightly.

Finally, if you release the forms from the strong back, ends first moving towards the middle, you may be lucky and find that all the forms lift, but in lesser amounts, as you approach the middle. ie: that the distortion averages out somewhat.

I hope, and suspect, that your problem is not that great. Keep us posted on your progress.

Et