One more perspective... I have now completed my first two kayaks using rolling bevel (after an initial bevel of ~4 degrees done on all strips on the table saw when the strips were ripped). The results are by no means perfect (there are limits to my patience), but the process worked fine for me from square one. There are very few significant gaps on the inside of the kayaks - likely fewer than would have happened using bead and cove, if comments on this forum are any indication. With the initial bevel I used, many strips in the less curved portions of the boats did not need further planing.

At any rate, I would not hesitate to use rolling bevel on a first kayak. One key to getting it right initially is to avoid planing the full width of the strip edge - use good light, and confine the planing to the inside portion of the joint, leaving a small strip of untouched wood along the outside corner of the strip you are working on. The unplaned portion of the joint can be small, as long as it remains visible. Also, sneak up on the fit until you get a feel for how much wood needs to be removed. It would not hurt to do a few test strips, say ones that span three or four stations, before diving in. If they work out fine, you can dive in with more confidence, if not you can try it again until it works out.

OTOH, I have never used bead and cove... The primary reason that I didn't is that I could not find a bead and cove bit that would work with 3/16 strips, and weight was a top priority for me, so I refused to use 1/4" strips just so I could spend the considerable extra hassle routing strips. Providential, that, as it turned out.

Strip happily,

Allan Edie