If you are primarily concerned with a functional kayak, you might try a method Bjorn Thomasson uses.
He uses square strips, does not fit them together with a rolling bevel, staples all of the strips in place at one time, then puts unfilled epoxy over all the strip joints at one time.

His claim is that he can strip a kayak in 2 days.

I tried it on my current build for about 1/2 of the hull, then I got too worried about wide gaps in the more curved sections of the hull. Actually after fiberglassing the hull on the outside I can't really tell the difference although there is no question the gaps without fitting the bevel has to be bigger.

The portion of the hull I did without a bevel went very fast. It is tedious sanding the lines of epoxy off the outside of the hull, but I did not find any seams which are not strong. I haven't sanded the inside, but a limited area has been scrapped to remove the majority of the epoxy, similar to Nick's videos. Not fun, but it never is and it goes relatively quickly.

The worst you might get out of this method is you might decide to paint the boat. It certainly is a time saver.

I did wonder if I might try beveling every seam, to leave an open seam on the inside. Glue with neat epoxy, then fill any open seams with filled epoxy. This would leave the outside with tight seams, they would only open up if you had to sand the outside a lot to get smooth contour. Much less work to sand the outside, but the inside would still require lots of work.
I use Nick's internal 2/4 internal strongback, which leaves some areas difficult to epoxy on the inside - the bow and stern, and you can't get the seams glued under the forms. All that means you have to finish gluing the inside after you pull the forms. Too much extra work? I don't know.

I do know this technique makes the stripping go fast, but probably will not meet the standards of those who make floating fine furniture. :)

Have fun