I modified the forms by hand. I started by cutting each form pattern horizontal at the shear line and taped a 1 1/8" paper strip in between the top and bottom of each to give me more foot room (size 11) and more volume in the hatches. I "extended" the form shape from deck and hull into this additional height and created a new shear line. To reduce the width I simply took 1/8" out of the center/vertical of the 10" form, 1/4" out of the 20", etc, until the 140" form, then did the same type of progression at 3/16" each from the stern to form 150. I kept the hull flare shape for it's added stability. Adding the rocker was a little more difficult. I worked on am arithmetic progression to establish the rocker shape so the hull doesn't have any "flat" sections. After working out what I thought would work, I did a displacement calculation to make sure I had approximate equal displacement fore and aft of center (design weight of 235 lbs). After repeating the process quite a few times, I ended up with a rocker design that gave me a 51%/49% displacement fore and aft. I als spaced the forms 10 3/8" on the strongback for the extra length. As far as using a computer, I only used a spread sheet to determine the displacement so I would only have to plug in new numbers as I changed the rocker design.

When I am paddling, the bow is about 1" under the surface of the water and the stern breaks the surface right at the end of the boat. I also added more curve to the bow so I wouldn't pick up weeds.