Take a look a the microBootlegger a little closer.
There is no definable sheer.

The widest point on the microBootleggers starts high, sweeps down to a horizontal line amidships then curls down to a low point at the stern.

I make the deck-hull joint level with the wide point line in the middle, I just keep it straight to the ends. I have this horizontal line marked on the plans for the solo microBootlegger.

This line is parallel with the waterline. The plans also include a waterline. I like to have the same wood from the waterline up to the centerline. If I don't have enough wood to do the whole boat, I will change below the waterline.

When ripping the board into strips, you need to first decide how you are going to break it down. You can rip strips off the edge, or your can rip blanks and then turn the blanks 90° and rip the strips off the blanks. Each system allows for different looks in the final result. What works depends on the grain, width and thickness of your wood. I use 1/8" thick strips when building with mahogany, to save weight and maximize the number of strips available.

Once ripped I will lay out all the strips on a flat surface and look at them. I will try to determine what will look best on the boat. There are many ways to lay out the strips and you might spend quite some time flipping and rearranging . You will want a clear system for keeping the strips in a meaningful order.

The image below is matched western red cedar where I ripped blanks and then turned them to rip strips. This allowed a wide match where the width of the original board is visible on the surface. The strips are not as visible and it looks more like a solid piece of wood. This is before the deck and hull have been attached so you can see the part line.