Wouldn't that clamping method be another staple (between forms)?

On my first kayak I used all staples and used staples between stations for lack of clamps. Staples used to clamp between stations must be angled at 45˚for the best holding power. Still, staples do not hold strips firmly to stations and can pull out unless angled. And they will not hold strongly enough with the old "force" method of stripping. If you used staples with my heat gun twisting method to place strips without force you'd have a better chance of making a fair hull using staples

You'd have to use at least 4 staples between each station on each strip to do a decent job. Dots of hot glue spaced every inch or so, are much stronger like the stitches of thread holding your clothes together. I've never had a hull as true to the stations as when I use hot glue. You may think staples are fast but if they don't hold the strips firmly to stations and align strip edges you will add more time fixing and fairing later.

I understand the appeal of 'stapleless' building for those who find the hole marks objectionable, but it is a fast building method for those who don't like hot-melt glue (or don't want to spend the $$$ on a good quality glue gun and glue).

I thought of using hot glue only in terms of it's stapleless advantages for years and continued to believe in staples for areas which are less visible like below the waterline. You'll see a boat on my "Stapleless" web page which has staples in the hull bottom with hot glue dots between stations. I have learned over time hot glue holds better. I've dropped the unquestioning "follow the leader" idea that staples are better. Old ideas are hard to shake!

Applying hot glue can be done with cheap hot glue guns, I did so for many years. Just stay away from "drooling" designs like some of the cheap "Surebonder" ones. I don't understand because Surebonder also makes the best expensive hot glue guns. Using the proper hot glue formula designed for wood is the key to success.

And, IME, hot-melt glue will pull splinters (big ones) out of WRC strips when knocking forms free or scraping the glue off the boat, so care is needed.

Hot glue works fantastically with western red cedar releasing cleanly. I use scrap WRC pieces for all kinds of holding tricks with hot glue.

Hot glue will release perfectly cleanly with a firm blow from a hammer. When I clamp the final bead to the deck lip of my hatch openings I have nothing to anchor the clamps to. I hot glue blocks right on the nearly finished deck. I tell you, you must believe in the "released by a strong blow" part of using hot glue to not fear the glass will be ripped right off the deck! I hit those blocks hard and they pop cleanly off.

When removing hot glue dots or supports the key is to hold the scraper handle perpendicular to the hull or deck surface to knock off the glue like using a hammer. If you hold the scraper as normally used with the handle at about a 30˚ angle, the scraper will bounce off the hot glue and gouge the strip surface. Ask me how I know. the hot glue dots pop off in a second. It takes a lot of time to remove a boat built exclusively with staples, i know, I've done it.

I wouldn"t use staples unless you paid me extra, and fat chance that's going to happen. Pay for holes??

I guess I'm a hot glue guru.

Rob