I used it on last year's BTD "Spray" kayak for Zack in TN. Björn has a surf ski model called the Spray. The plans were modified to make it longer, narrower and with an enclosed kayak deck. It's quite similar to his new Panthera model and was developed at the same time.
http://watercraft.clearstreamwood.com/2014/03/spray-hpk-hull-construction/

It worked OK. The shop was a bit cool and my epoxy didn't penetrate well. I had a few spots I had to re-glue during sanding. I then had an issue with staple removal. I often reuse my forms so I make them out of 12mm fir plywood. Usually the staples pull out easily. No so this time. The extra glue and some really tenacious plywood made them pull hard. I broke almost a quarter during removal. I also had a few strips move out of alignment during the gluing. Spot gluing with CA would have helped. The other big gripe was the initial sanding. Sanding epoxy is much harder than bare cedar, even with P40 disks. I used three times the number of disks I usually use.

For painted hulls I like to do a modified method: I use mostly square-cut strips but I edge glue them one at a time. The stripping is nearly as fast as the dry method but you save time sanding. The strips lay quick and are held by the glue on the edge. Like the dry method any voids between strips on the exterior get filled with epoxy thickened with phenolic micro-balloons and/or West 410 Microlight. The choice depends on the final paint color as 410 isn't great under dark surfaces.