Date: 8/22/2016, 10:44 am
In the manual it says to plane the hull chines with a hand plane, creating a 1/4" flat, then round over with sandpaper. It says nothing about exposing the epoxy fillet.
The beveled panels only make contact with each other at the outside of the boat, not across the entire bevel. (i.e. the angle is open on the inside of the boat, which gets filled by epoxy fillets).
So this leaves only about 1mm of actual wood (the face veneer) on the outside that could be removed before you would hit the epoxy.
How much round over is required?
Is it the designer's intention to expose the epoxy, creating a stripe at all the chines? That stripe would then fade to nothing at the bow & stern where the panels butt together without the bevel.
I have rounded mine over with just sandpaper so far and the fit up is great, appearing almost seamless over most of the boat. Im hesitant to go further and risk exposing epoxy....and of course I dont want air pockets under my fiberglass from sharp edges either.
I dont want to expose the epoxy if not necessary, but if I have to for good FG lay up, then I would. All the pics Ive found online dont appear to have a contrasting stripe, making me think that less than 1/4" is OK, but there are no real close ups of the chines. I did not stain my hull panels, so the epoxy will appear as dark stripe against the lighter okume.
Messages In This Thread
- S&G: Petrel play SG: Rounding the chines, how much?
APD -- 8/22/2016, 10:44 am- Re: S&G: Petrel play SG: Rounding the chines, how
Marc Upchurch -- 8/22/2016, 12:07 pm- Re: S&G: Petrel play SG: Rounding the chines, how *PIC*
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 8/22/2016, 2:22 pm - Re: S&G: Petrel play SG: Rounding the chines, how *PIC*
- Re: S&G: Petrel play SG: Rounding the chines, how