While not strictly necessary, fiberglass does not like sharp edges and sharp edges are subject to damage and are inherently weaker, so round the edges of the chines is highly recommended.
Since a radius on the corners are really a good idea, lets consider what it will look like. The hull panels of the Petrel Play should have a 45° bevel, the angle of the panels is about 120° leaving a 30° gap at the chine that gets filled by the fillet.
This is a pretty small gap (about 1/32") that is usually filled with a wood-flour mix of a similar color to the okoume, maybe a bit lighter or darker. The mere act of sanding the corner of the chine will slightly change the tone of the wood even if you don't hit the fillet.
Frankly, I believe you are worrying about something that is not going to be aesthetically meaningful. The dings the chine will absorb would soon overwhelm any visual impact of a very fine, clean line possibly revealed by rounding the chine.
If I were going for the strongest option, I would radius the chine more, not less.
Messages In This Thread
- S&G: Petrel play SG: Rounding the chines, how much?
APD -- 8/22/2016, 10:44 am- Re: S&G: Petrel play SG: Rounding the chines, how
Marc Upchurch -- 8/22/2016, 12:07 pm- Re: S&G: Petrel play SG: Rounding the chines, how *PIC*
Nick Schade - Guillemot Kayaks -- 8/22/2016, 2:22 pm - Re: S&G: Petrel play SG: Rounding the chines, how *PIC*
- Re: S&G: Petrel play SG: Rounding the chines, how