There's not much point in arguing about techniques IMO. Some folks like to 'research extensively' ; others prefer to learn 'as they go'. It's a personality/learning styles thing.
My thoughts:
a) Remember that the wood is just the core for the composite, so the gluing (if any) between the strips is just to hold the wood together so it can be sanded before glassing, and to keep the epoxy from dripping through. Anything beyond 'minimum structural integrity' is for appearance - which is important if you are using a clear (wood showing) finish.
b)I agree with the comments about wood filler -i.e. I've never had good luck with a commercial wood filler; the ones I tried tended to emphasize the cracks rather than hide them.
c) Most boats, especially first/second builds, have some features that are less than 'optimal'. Most of us - who come from a woodworking background where 'joinery' is inspected and admired (or not!) - tend to emphasize that aspect of our kayak builds.
Experienced & 'pro' paddlers (instructors, guides) will generally 'zero in' on things like outfitting (deck lines, hatches,etc.) and things that affect performance like the seat, footpegs, bracing padding, cockpit coaming (does it hold a sprayskirt in rough conditions?) etc. as well as the design . For them, the woodworking part is secondary. I see plenty of pictures of beautiful wood kayaks that wouldn't be allowed on the water in a class with a good instructor in my area (BC coast).
This is all a roundabout way of saying that the woodworking is just part of a good kayak build, IMO, so don't get too concerned about it.
d)There are some very sharp looking kayaks with a combination of visible wood and painted areas (or even all painted :-) ), so that's 'another arrow in your quiver' if the woodworking doesn't come out perfectly.
e)Some folks boast about how long their builds take them & that's OK too!