I have had thick CA joints which looked good when the glue was being used and accelerator applied.
Then when I sanded the joint I would find the width of the glue line much wider than I wanted, and occasionally, the glue line was not complete - there were partial gaps and voids.
This may be a personal technique issue, but it happened enough for me to not want to use it as a consistent method.
Repair of the gaps was irritating and killed much of the time savings.
The fact that the glue line was thicker than a typical Titebond glue line was not really an issue, since the Ca does not show up bad in the final finish.

For me, making butt joints on the boat with Titebond, it is not really an issue about taking too long.
Generally I will go to the other side to apply the next strip which provides plenty of time for the joint to be set well enough to take off the clamping. It only takes about 5 minutes for a Titebond joint to set well enough to start working on the next strip installation, providing the joint has no big gaps.

As I said before, I really suggest that trying to scarf joints in finished dimension strips is a very poor idea.
If you want to do it, then cut your boards initially to the 3/4 by 2 shape (like Bill said), make any scarfs necessary, then trim up the "board" to eliminate and scarf joint flaws and then cut to strip width.
Given that the scarfed 3/4 side may have flaws you might was to start at 7/8 to be able to trim the flaws out before cutting to strip width.

It certainly would be easy enough to take one or two 2x4's and try it both ways and see how you want to do it.

You are going to find there is a lot of waste no matter how you do it.