Peter,
Thanks for the weight information.
This thread started because I asked about using green white oak, mainly I wanted to know
About its behavior after milling and bending.
It quickly turned into a thread about weight.
I'm not terribly concerned about final weight.
I have boats that push 80+ lbs as well as having owned several ultralight Kevlar boats over the years.
I've always managed to get them to and from the water.
I've even humped aluminum Grumman canoes in the BWCAW.
I have a good bit of green oak cut and that's what I intended to use because that's what
I could get.
I would build with lighter material if I had access to them.
That might be happening, I have word from a local lumber shop that a load of 16' western red cedar
Was delivered to them.
I'm going to see if I can sort through it and see if I can get clean boards. If I can I will use that.
In that doesn't work out I will use the oak.
I have designed and built stripper canoes, I've built stitch and glue.
I've become sensitive to resin, so no more glass builds for me.
so I'm going to try my hand at skin on frame.
The canoe is my own design.
I made stations/forms that have the cross section profile I wanted, then I mocked up the canoe shape using
String to show the stringer lines.
I played with that till I had a shape that looked right.
That's worked well for me building cedar strip, it should work for SOF.
Next I will mill wood and then start to assemble.
The canoe will be 15'8" +/- overall with a 15'5" +/- waterline.
The width is 30" aft of center, it's an asymmetrical design with shallow arch, some tumble home and moderate
Rocker. 1"+/- stern, 1.5" +/- bow.
I'm using +/- for measurement right now as it won't be exact till I get the gunnels
And keel steam bent and on the forms, then I will know final measurement.

RT