: Anybody have a source for good cedar in the central part on NC. I plan on
: ripping my own, but if I can get a good deal on cove and bead strips, I
: might change my mind.

: As an alternative to cove and bead strips has anybody every used a sanding
: table (a table saw ,with a fence, with a sanding disk in place of the
: blade) to put a slight bevel on the strip, thereby eliminating the fragile
: nature of the cove?

I happen to acquire a jointer in a tool trade. Tilting the fence to bevel the edge of the strips on a canoe I built was a snap. You only have to bevel one edge of the strips. Where the curve of the boat perpendicular to the long axis of the strip changes along the length of the strip the degree of bevel changes (a rolling bevel). Spot adjustments in the bevel can be easily made with a block plane.

If you bevel to the maximum angle needed on the strip, the angle will be a little more than you need along the rest of the strip. Where the angle is more than needed the strip will touch on the outside edge leaving a small gap on the inside. If the bevel angle is close and by keeping the fairing of the wood to only the minimum necessary, the joints will stay tight. However, the change in the curve along the length of a strip is greater on a kayak than on a canoe and more rolling bevels will be necessary to keep tight joints on the kayak.

If I was going to staple I would just do a straight bevel. If I wanted a stapleless hull I would go with the bead and cove and at the changes in wood color on the deck design do the rolling bevel.