: Hi Dan,
: I am in a similar boat, as it were..I do a shear clamp strip after
: glassing the inside of the hull,so I don't notch out the forms
: for this.It is a simple operation.The tricky bit is preparing
: the mating surface so the deck, in my case, sits well on the
: hull.My current boat build has a radiused shear area ,from hull
: to deck, so I will be challenged when the time comes to this
: bit...I will just "wing it".My third build brings me
: an indeterminate level of "winging it"
: confidence..."I guess I've had my unfair share of FUBAR
: learning experiences though.There is big investment in this
: activity of ours[angst and worries] that warrants the use of
: preschool curiosity to make sure the light at the end of the
: tunnel is actually light.I see this light in the image of me
: paddling my new boat.....

: cheers,from Paul NZ

I did the same thing Paul did when I did my BP sheer clamp last week. After the inside was glassed, I simply ran an extra strip up each side. I notched the frames to accommodate the strips so that I could pop them back in for reference. When the deck was planked and trimmed, I took a plane to the sheer clamp to make sure that there was a good mating surface between the deck and hull/sheer clamp. It was quite an easy operation, actually.

I am very close to joining the deck and hull - within a few days, at least. Then all I have to do is finish the cockpit rim, sand and glass the deck. Do the final sanding of the entire boat and then paint. The "light at my end of my tunnel" is expected to arrive within the coming weeks!!

If you're interested, here's a link to my blog. I've been making entries on various milestone in the building process. Last night I ran a fillet around the cockpit riser and around the front and rear hatche openings.

http://justyakkin2.blogspot.ca/

I'm a very "emperical" type of builder. I just do things and they often, thankfully, work out!!

Sean